Bella nosio Recipe

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Når en brissel er en brissel
Mere klassisk fransk end kalvebrisler bliver det ikke.
Efter mødet med Hundested Havn pustede min gæst, da jeg fortalte at han havde bestilt halskirtler fra en kalv, og at han med deres fine cellestruktur godt kunne forvente et lidt blødt, næsten svampet bid.

Men Le Sommelier er et godt sted at blive introduceret til fransk velsmag i sin grundform. Her lader man brislens egen sarte nøddeagtige levertoner træde roligt frem, kun fremhævet af det brunede smør, hvor lidt purløg gav en græsset kant og et mildt løft af løg, mens et krymmel af ristet kyllingeskind tilførte salt og knas til konsistensen. Rå strimler af grøn asparges og papirtynde skiver radise balancerede fedmen med frisk sødme og let bitterhed. En fremragende bistroservering.

På grænsen til gummitræls
Min forret var tre små sejl af blæksprutte over et skib af små delikate løg og lækre artiskokhjerter braiseret i hvidvin og urter. Der er ingen ben i en blæksprutte, men det er en kunst at tilberede den godt. Og denne var på grænsen til gummitræls. Ærgerligt, for den smagte fint med et pikant strøg af den franske AOC chili, piment d’Espelette. I glasset en hvid Bordeaux, L’Abeille de Fieuzal 2010, fra Pessac-Leognan i Graves, hvor store tørre hvidvine produceres.

Med god syre og frisk, frugtig aroma fra sauvignon blanc og fedme fra sémillonen var det en alsidig vin, der navigerede fint mellem hav og land på tallerknerne. Der kom rødvin, Pont de Gassac 2010 fra Languedoc, i min gæsts glas til hans boeuf bavette. Den franske udskæring, hvor den kraftige smag kompenserer for de lidt seje bidder. En fantastisk saftig luns badet i stegesky, og nu var der virkelig medvind på den anden side af bordet.

Et par frække sidespark fra pikante grillede røde pebre sikrede mod ren cruise control, mens køkkenchefens version af pommes a l’étouffée var sindssygt lækker. Kogte kartofler, confiteret i andefedt, timian og hvidløg og brasede i meget varm ovn til en komprimeret, lagdelt masse med sprød marmorering og saftig tyngde.

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