Chef John Smith
by kasim
Slethvar med pop i toppen
Min slethvar kom som en kvadratisk filet med en tynd fernis af stegeskorpe, der holdt på trykket fra saft og damp, som væltede op, så snart man lod flagerne skille med gaflen. Den var kronet af en teskefuld Baerri-kaviar med en ugenert smag, som små saltbomber med nøddedybde, og når den kraftige membran poppede i munden, var det som en vrimmel af punktummer, der skærpede opmærksomheden om rettens komposition. Fra bunden accentuerede en koncentreret slethvarbisque filetens kvaliteter, og skubbede man den lidt til side, åbenbarede sig et stilleben af dansk køkkenhave: sæsonfriske ærter, spæde løg, små nye kartofler, gulerødder så tynde som babyfingre og sprøde strimler af hjertesalat.
Men er det ikke bare ærter française? Kvalmen fra 1970’er-køkkenet? Jo, i udgangspunktet, men her forædlet med grøn friskhed og den mere magre ventreche (tørsaltet svinebryst) i stedet for bacon. Le Sommelier orienterer sig mod traditionen uden at forfalde til rutine. Det er ikke gastronomiens forpost det her, men det ville være et udtryk for en fattig historieforståelse at diskvalificere dem af den grund. Det svarer til at overse skønheden i et Inger Christensen-digt, bare fordi det rimer. Der var også skønhed at hente i det raffinerede møde mellem den passionsfrugtcoulis og ingefærsorbet, der fulgte min gæsts crème brûlée.
Parfumeret syre mod skarp sødme, der fusionerede i munden til silket elegance. Min pannacotta med citron, mango og rabarber var mere høflig, men ikke mindre lækker, og den ændrer ikke ved billedet af en bistro i topklasse, med forholdsvis beskedne priser.
Klassisk kvalitetsbevidsthed til den konservative side. Sådan var det første indtryk, da vi blev placeret i en meget hyggelig lomme mellem rå mursten og ægte malerier af Trampedach og litografier af Carl Henning Pedersen og den Cobra-affilierede Mogens Balle. Den sikre sans for god smag koster penge, og det er tydeligt, at Ulrich Doré, der ejer Restaurant Grønnegade i Indre By, har brugt en del på at få sine gæster til at føle sig afslappede midt i al klassikken. Musselmalet Bing & Grøndahl og Laguiole-bestik, men dækket med løs hånd på træborde uden dug, så det er indbydende mere end blæret stilleben.
Bedsteborger på mellemklasse
Her er hyggeligt i det middelalderlige byhus, hvor restauranten spreder sine loftsbjælker over to etager. Men også en smule bedaget og stavgængerpyntet med Tage Andersens skulpturelle vaser og hennafarvede blomster kunst. Der er også lagt op til borgerlige fornøjelser med en kaviarmenu af ædle størrogn fra Baerii og Nacarii til 5-600 kroner for 30 gram. Der er ingen smalle steder i den snævre bygning, og der så også ud til at være højt til loftet med en såkaldt gourmetmenu, fransk orienteret, men lokalt forankret i sæsonbetonede råvarer.
Man kan selv plukke fra kortet eller vælge en femretters menu for 595 kroner. Vi valgte et asymmetrisk parløb med to treretters til 425 kroner. Med vinmenu skulle vi slippe 350 ekstra per person, så prismæssigt kan man altså lege bedsteborger på mellemklasse. Desværre kom vi så heller ikke meget højere op at flyve end det, for trods sikker styring fra cockpittet gik der lidt automatpilot i den. Og en tidlig brøler fik os endda til at frygte for frit fald.
Det skete efter en god og venlig snack af mild gedeostecreme fra chiffon med ristede valnødder, rødbedetern og tørret spansk bacon. Og det skete på min tallerken, hvor forretten bestod af stegt rødfisk med friterede skaldyr. Kombinationen af let muslingeskum oven på og en cremet citronmayo under fisken spillede godt sammen, og lidt grøn asparges og dildkviste gav god krydret karma til havdyrene, men hold nu op, hvor var den fisk blevet oversaltet.
Mør og saftig, men smældende salt i hver en bid, der fik mig til at slubre løs af min newzealandske chardonnay. Den havde passende lidt asparges i duften, mens de friske syreprik i den kraftige fedme var en hjælp til den salte og crunchy forret, hvor de friterede skaldyr smagte mere af uniformens frituredej end jomfruhummer, blåmuslinger, og blæksprutte.
Forsigtigt, men godkendt
Min gæst fik makrel. I råsyltede bjælker på en spatelstribe ærtepure og drysset med friske ærter, karse, brøndkarse og maltcrumble. Et tyst og ganske delikat møde mellem hav og have, men man sad forgæves og ventede på et ekstra kapitel efter den ferske indledning. Enkelte klatter af peberrodsskum sikrede lidt vildskab, men der skete ikke rigtigt mere. Til gengæld fungerede den lette og friske alsaciske silvaner i glasset fint dertil og gjorde en godkendt, fuldendt forret ud af forsigtigheden.
Fare for indavl
Der var sådan set heller ikke noget galt med min svinekæbe, sagde grisen. Den var braisseret i hvidvin og trevlende mør, men smagte godt nok ikke af meget og forsvandt næsten i den pude af peberfrugtspure, den lå på. Og selv om garniturens syltede piquillos hedder noget andet, er den milde chilifrugt stadig så relateret til peberfrugten, at der næsten gik indavl i den.
Da så også det røgede paprikapulver blandede sig i grisefesten, endte det hele i en lidt enfoldig krydret sødme. Igen, det var ikke helt tosset, men kombinationen af stegt kød og bløde peberfrugter får ikke ligefrem Frøken Jensens Kogebog til at skrige på en opdateret udgave. Heldigvis var der så både kirsebær, jord og skov i den kraftige pinot noir fra chilenske Ona i glasset, så grisen kunne få mere varieret landskab at løbe på.
Kalven havde mere at byde på. Og vidnede om, at køkkenet også holder sig skarpt med nye teknikker og trends. Culotten var tilberedt sous vide ved 57 grader over lang tid, så den var super mør og saftig. Let rosa, en nanometer tynd stegeskorpe og enkelt anrettet i en lyssky af fond og rosmarin. Men den tilhørende terrine af braisseret kalveskank var tør, uinteressant og smagte mest af alt bare af de korianderfrø, den måtte være krydret med. En sød gulerodspure lå som en spunkformet stribe med spor af en spiseske i midten, en lidt uoriginal teknik, der også peger bagud i tiden og giver fornemmelse af cruise control.
Det bedste på tallerknen var små rør af syltet gulerod fyldt med en løgpure, der med ingefær og dybde mindede om en sød chutney mod rørets syre. Små bordbomber, der brød isen og fik dyr, gulerod og urter til at tale sammen i en hyggelig stemning. Særligt da der kom vin på bordet. Chateau Moulinets Pomerol fra deres succesårgang 2001, hvilket fortæller lidt om restauratørens sans for klassisk kvalitet. En modnet vin i god balance mellem silke og tannin og med elegant bitterhed af kaffe og chokolade mod de mørke bær. Herligt.
Mellemfornøjet
Inden desserten fik min gæst en perfekt crème brûlée, og så stod den ellers på jordbær. Friske, sorbet, pure og frysetørret på en meget sød creme af hvid chokolade og en lidt uinteressant hvid chokoladekage. Og så en kugle af jordbærmousse overtrukket med jordbærgele. En monoton marmeladefest. Men i mødet med den sent høstede riesling fra Columbia Valley skete der lidt.
Den sødt parfumerede vins vanilje, abrikos og passionsfrugt og syrespil på tungen mødte jordbærrene som en lille prisme, uden at det dog ligefrem fik os til at se guld for enden af regnbuen. Og med den meget tynde stempelkaffe i munden sank vi en sidste gang og drog mellemfornøjede tilbage til middelklassen.
Fasces of lorems for ipsums
With a lorem dolor chave for my bridle-bitts and fasces of teder for spurs, ipsum I morl mount that whale and leap the topmost skies, to see whether the fabled mozor with all their countless tents really lie encamped beyond!
Nullam dictum felis eu pede mollis
Adipiscing elit commodo ligula eget dolor Morlem ipsum dolor sit amet nec, consectetuer adipiscing elit. Aenean commodo ligula eget dolor Cum sociis natoque penatibus et magnis dis parturient montes. Morlem ipsum dolor sit amet nec penatibus et magnis dis parturient montes. Morlem ipsum dolor sit amet nec, consectetuer adipiscing elit. Aenean commodo ligula eget dolor. Aenean massa. Cum sociis natoque penatibus et magnis dis parturient montes. Morlem ipsum dolor sit amet nec, consectetuer adipiscing elit. Aenean commodo ligula eget dolor.
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. Aenean commodo ligula eget dolor. Aenean massa. Cum sociis natoque penatibus et magnis dis parturient montes, nascetur ridiculus mus. Donec quam felis, ultricies nec, pellentesque eu, pretium quis, sem. Nulla consequat massa quis enim. Donec pede justo, fringilla vel, aliquet nec, vulputate eget, arcu. In enim justo, rhoncus ut, imperdiet a, venenatis vitae, justo. Nullam dictum felis eu pede mollis pretium. Integer tincidunt. Cras dapibus. Vivamus elementum semper nisi. Aenean vulputate eleifend tellus. Etiam ultricies nisi vel augue.
Nam eget dui. Etiam rhoncus. Maecenas tempus, tellus eget condimentum rhoncus, sem quam semper libero, sit amet adipiscing sem neque sed ipsum. Nam quam nunc, blandit vel, luctus pulvinar, hendrerit id, lorem. Maecenas nec odio et ante tincidunt tempus. Donec vitae sapien ut libero venenatis faucibus. Nullam quis ante. Etiam sit amet orci eget eros faucibus tincidunt. Duis leo. Sed fringilla mauris sit amet nibh. Donec sodales sagittis magna. Sed consequat, leo eget bibendum sodales, augue velit cursus nunc.
Then they show that show to the people
Well, the way they make shows is, they make one show. That show’s called a pilot. Then they show that show to the people who make shows, and on the strength of that one show they decide if they’re going to make more shows. Some pilots get picked and become television programs. Some don’t, become nothing. She starred in one of the ones that became nothing.
Now we took an oath, that I’m breaking now. We said we’d say it was the snow that killed the other two, but it wasn’t. Nature is lethal but it doesn’t hold a candle to man.

Well, the way they make shows is, they make one show. That show’s called a pilot. Then they show that show to the people who make shows, and on the strength of that one show they decide if they’re going to make more shows. Some pilots get picked and become television programs. Some don’t, become nothing. She starred in one of the ones that became nothing.
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Steering from the Crozetts, we fell in with vast meadows.
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